SALUMERIA FONTANOT

In Piazza Giotti, just across the street from the Jewish Synagogue is a wonderful little deli or Salumeria run by the Fontanot family. The walls and doors outside are covered with signs describing their inventory. But right away you sense there is something different. Perhaps the meticulous and measured calligraphy evoking some medieval manuscript  or…

SPRINGTIME IN TRIESTE 2019

As you may well have noticed, the days are a little longer, the sun a little warmer and the hillsides are now dotted with flowering trees. On the Carst, there are violets, crocuses, buttercups and daisies dotting the fields and roadside. Pretty soon, the first of the lucertole (lizards a.k.a. sun-seekers) will creep over to the…

PIAZZA UNITA’ D’ITALIA’S DESPA(I)R

Last month, on January 24, amid little fanfare or celebration, the Despar supermarket opened its doors onto Piazza Unita’. Long awaited, much debated and controversial, the arrival of a supermarket on the most iconic piazza in Italy was largely frowned upon by almost everyone in Trieste, concerned that it would “cheapen” the piazza and quickly…

TASTE OF TRIESTE: PRESNITZ & PUTIZZA

In Trieste, every season and holiday has its “must-haves” sweets, whether it’s Titola for Easter, Gnocchi di Susine to mark the end of summer or Fave dei Morti in the Fall. Christmastime is no different and holiday tables will be laden with a variety of baked goods. Here are the desserts that you will  surely find at a typical Triestine Christmas:…

TASTE OF TRIESTE: TITOLA

My favorite thing about Easter in Trieste is the delicious Titola. A traditional Easter cake that makes its appearance for a brief time right around the holiday, it is wrapped in cellophane and colorful bows. It is as pretty as it is delicious with its colorful easter eggs nestled in the shiny, moist braided dough.…

ANTICO CAFFE’ SAN MARCO

Antico Caffe’ San Marco is one of the most iconic historic cafes in the heart of Trieste and must not be missed.  Established in 1914, it soon became the intellectual hub of the city. Writers, artists, musicians, students and activists  (the “Irredentisti”) all met here to read the daily paper, study, write, discuss and debate the…

SURVIVAL GUIDE: EASTER BREADS & TITOLA

Easter in Trieste is beautiful, the fruit trees are ending their bloom and spreading their last blossoms, like confetti, on the passersby. Cascades of wisteria pour over terrace railings, pergolas and retaining walls of villas perched on Via Commerciale. And everywhere the scent of jasmine and blossoming laurel grows more intoxicating as the sun gets warmer.…