The Tram of Opicina, or as they call it here, el tram de Opčina (pron. Óp-seena), is a beloved icon of Trieste. Part tram and part funicular, these spunky bright blue and white tramcars used to provide regular service from Piazza Oberdan in downtown Trieste to the Altopiano Carsico. The line operated as a conventional, electrically…
My favorite thing about Easter in Trieste is the delicious Titola. A traditional Easter cake that makes its appearance for a brief time right around the holiday, it is wrapped in cellophane and colorful bows. It is as pretty as it is delicious with its colorful easter eggs nestled in the shiny, moist braided dough.…
The only reason I have ever traveled to the town of Ronchi dei Legionari is to get to Trieste’s airport. “Ronchi” means cultivated lands and the town was originally called Ronchi di Monfalcone. The name changed came after Gabriele D’Annunzio (famed Italian military man, poet, playwright, journalist, patriot) led 2,000 locals — not part of…
Carnevale is just around the corner. Store fronts are filled with glittery masks and brightly colored costumes and bakeries are showcasing the typical holiday fried fare consisting of crostoli, bugie ripiene, frittole, castagnole and other goodies! Everywhere you walk, you see the remnants of early celebrations; confetti and streamers scattered and balled up in street…
Trieste doesn’t disappoint on New Year’s Eve, (“la vigilia di Capodanno”). Celebrations abound at clubs, restaurants and bars throughout the city and this year, New Year’s eve celebrations also return to the beautiful medieval Castello San Giusto, offering a prime position from which to view the fireworks over the gulf of Trieste. The party in…
I was surprised when Universal Pictures released the horror/comedy film entitled Krampus in 2015. I had just moved to Trieste but until then, I had never heard of the Krampus lore which here coincides with the feast of Saint Nicholas. There are celebrations that last over several days and encompass several mountain villages in the…
“The Fava Beans of the Dead” sounds particularly well-suited to this time of year, now that we’re coming up to Halloween and the Giorno dei Morti, or day of the dead. Each year, starting in October, piles of pink, white and brown round treats fill the windows of the local bakeries. These are the the Fave…
While visiting the Museo Diocesano in Udine recently, I came upon an unusual collection of small paintings. Each one depicted a particularly gruesome scene; someone falling from a rooftop, someone being gored in the eye by a bull, someone being trampled by a carriage and so on. They reminded me of the terrible illustrations…
Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2011 (recognized as the capitol of the Lombard Duchy and first stop in the “The Lombards in Italy, the places of power (568-774 A.D.)” UNESCO Itinerary), Cividale del Friuli is an intriguing town. Situated high above the Natisone River which, like the Isonzo river, is an amazing shade of emerald green…
The legend of the “Lady in White” is a common one around the world. Often, it refers to the ghost of a woman who, in life, has suffered abuse or unbearable tragedy so as to deprive her of peace in the afterlife. Even Trieste has its “lady in white” — in fact — there are even a…
I experienced my first Bora in Trieste, at night. We had a forecast that the wind would pick up in the evening and, never having experienced it before, I admit I was a little excited and a little nervous having heard many stories about its strength and unpredictability. It began slowly but by the time we went to…
