TASTE OF TRIESTE: TARTARA DI BOVINO

Walking around Trieste, you will notice that many butcher shops have signs advertising the availability of steak tartare on Fridays and Saturdays. This struck me as unusual in more ways than one; having grown up in an Italian-American family, Fridays was rigorously a “no meat” day in the Catholic practice of self-discipline and penance. And…

SALUMERIA FONTANOT

In Piazza Giotti, just across the street from the Jewish Synagogue is a wonderful little deli or Salumeria run by the Fontanot family. The walls and doors outside are covered with signs describing their inventory. But right away you sense there is something different. Perhaps the meticulous and measured calligraphy evoking some medieval manuscript  or…

PaPi

A new restaurant has recently opened in Trieste’s commercial district on Via Macchiavelli. This area, which until recently had been a little depressed and filled primarily with commercial offices and dollar stores, is seeing a resurgence with a crop of new bars and restaurants to match the increasing  residential renovation projects of the district. PaPi…

TASTE OF TRIESTE: PRESNITZ & PUTIZZA

In Trieste, every season and holiday has its “must-haves” sweets, whether it’s Titola for Easter, Gnocchi di Susine to mark the end of summer or Fave dei Morti in the Fall. Christmastime is no different and holiday tables will be laden with a variety of baked goods. Here are the desserts that you will  surely find at a typical Triestine Christmas:…

BAR BUFFET DA SIORA ROSA

  Trieste is famous for its “buffets”. No, not the American style, all-you-can-eat self service brunchy buffet you’re thinking of…. In Trieste, buffets are an institution, a legacy from the days under the Austro-Hungarian Empire of which the city is still proud. The buffet is a “democratic” eatery equally loved by workers, students, retirees and ladies…