TASTE OF TRIESTE: WILD GARLIC RISOTTO

With Spring coming early this year, the farmers’ markets are already selling the local erbe spontanee (spontaneous herbs a.k.a. wild edibles) like bladder campion silene vulgaris, wild asparagus, dandelion and aglio orsino = wild garlic (the Italian name means “Bear Garlic” because, apparently, bears waking from their hibernation tend to eat it in huge quantities). I…

BiTS:TRIESTE’S BIKE SHARING PROGRAM

  As you know, I love Trieste to bits, but now I love BiTS! BiTS stands for “Bike sharing Trieste” which is a new program launched this week to promote “soft mobility” in an attempt to reduce congestion, pollution and provide sustainable alternative transportation modes in Trieste. This initiative is aimed at the tourist and…

ROSA DI GORIZIA

Ode to the Rosa di Gorizia courtesy of Rosenbar Restaurant   In the dead of winter, when all else struggles to bloom, the Rosa di Gorizia is the first “flower” to appear in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region.  I’m talking about a local variety of red radicchio (Cichorium intybus) that has been cultivated in and…

TASTE OF TRIESTE: TARTARA DI BOVINO

Walking around Trieste, you will notice that many butcher shops have signs advertising the availability of steak tartare on Fridays and Saturdays. This struck me as unusual in more ways than one; having grown up in an Italian-American family, Fridays was rigorously a “no meat” day in the Catholic practice of self-discipline and penance. And…

BARCOLANA 2019

This year, Trieste celebrates 51 years of the Barcolana Autumn Cup Regatta (La Barcolana), organized by the Società Velica di Barcola e Grignano. This is one of Trieste’s premiere events for locals and visitors alike and is the world’s largest regatta. For 2019’s race, the organization had to place a cap of 2,700 on the number of entries, as the…

SURVIVAL GUIDE: GETTING AROUND TRIESTE 2019

People often complain that Trieste is so remote — and Triestines joke that they like it that way! But in fact, this famous gateway to “MittleEurope”  is undergoing a transformation to make it even more accessible. The biggest news is the new train connection between Trieste and the local international airport Aeroporto Friuli Venezia Giulia (TRS)…