SURVIVAL GUIDE: EASTER BREADS & TITOLA

Easter in Trieste is beautiful, the fruit trees are ending their bloom and spreading their last blossoms, like confetti, on the passersby. Cascades of wisteria pour over terrace railings, pergolas and retaining walls of villas perched on Via Commerciale. And everywhere the scent of jasmine and blossoming laurel grows more intoxicating as the sun gets warmer.…

TRATTORIA NERODISEPPIA

At Trattoria NerodiSeppia it is often hard to snag a reservation if you don’t plan ahead. Not only is seating extremely limited but it is extraordinarily popular with locals and tourists alike, even if it is a little out of the hustle and bustle of the city center. The restaurant is cute, cozy and unpretentious.…

SAN SPIRIDIONE CHURCH

When I arrived to Trieste, the first thing that struck me was how many different places of worship there are in the City.  Apart from the traditional churches, Trieste is home to one of the largest Jewish Synagogues in Europe, a Lutheran Church, a Greek Orthodox Church, and the Serbian Orthodox Church of San Spyridon or San Spiridione.…

RUJ

One would never guess that the modest little country home off the winding road just across the border from Italy near Opicina, is seat to one of Slovenia’s most prized chefs. Peter Patajac, winner of many International culinary awards, runs Ruj in Sezana, Slovenia — a mere 15 minutes from downtown Trieste. In the heart of…

FOLKLORE: BORA, THE LADY OF TRIESTE

I experienced my first Bora in Trieste, at night. We had a forecast that the wind would pick up in the evening and, never having experienced it before, I admit I was a little excited and a little nervous having heard many stories about its strength and unpredictability.  It began slowly but by the time we went to…

SUPER BOWL SUNDAY IN TRIESTE

I insist on keeping certain American traditions alive while I’m here in Trieste. However, it’s not so easy given several factors; (1) that it’s impossible to watch any American “Live” TV event, as it airs here any time between midnight and 3am which, try as I might, is WAAAAAY past my bedtime. (2) That preparing any traditional American food…

MAGAZZINO 18

It is only recently that the terrible events involving Italy & Yugoslavia at the end of WWII, have been acknowledged. It is a very painful period where atrocities were perpetrated by both countries, eventually leading up to the Istrian Exodus. In brief, from 1947 –the year The Treaty of Paris was signed giving Istria, Fiume and Dalmatia…

CIVICO MUSEO D’ARTE ORIENTALE

A jewel in the heart of Trieste, the Museum of Asian Art narrarates the link between Trieste and the Far East first established in 1700s when the ships of LLoyd Adriatico first sailed through the Suez Canal to reach the shores of India, China and Japan.   Part of the collection is a gift of the…