SURVIVAL GUIDE: FERRAGOSTO

Once upon a time, the month of August saw major Italian cities emptying out as locals would pile their families and belongings and hit the road to their summer getaway. For some it meant heading to the beach, others to the mountains, but for sure, the city would shut down except for the vision of…

SURVIVAL GUIDE: PARKS, GARDENS, GREEN SPACES

Often referred to as the “lungs” of the city, Trieste’s parks and gardens offer pleasant refuge from the dog days of summer and lovely displays of color in spring and fall. Trieste’s main gardens prominently featuring botanical specimens are: The Civico Orto Botanico: Established in 1842 the city-run botanical garden is a small but lush…

BAR BUFFET DA SIORA ROSA

  Trieste is famous for its “buffets”. No, not the American style, all-you-can-eat self service brunchy buffet you’re thinking of…. In Trieste, buffets are an institution, a legacy from the days under the Austro-Hungarian Empire of which the city is still proud. The buffet is a “democratic” eatery equally loved by workers, students, retirees and ladies…

SALUS POINT

My awareness of the increasingly widespread problem of gluten intolerance has grown enormously since I moved to Italy.  It seems ironic that a country that is synonymous with pasta and some of the most amazing bread in the world should have such a high incidence of sufferers. According to the Italian Health Commission on Celiac…

THE “3 MEALS IN 3 COUNTRIES” CHALLENGE

I recently read an article by a fellow American and writer, Noah Charney, who lives in Slovenia, about his Ski and Swim Challenge. Basically, Slovenia, our lovely neighbor to the north and east, boasts “that the country is so compact, with such a diversity of terrain, that you can ski in the morning and swim…

SPRINGTIME IS COMING!

Every year Trieste welcomes Spring with a calendar filled with outdoor events sure to help you thaw out from the seemingly endless and very gray winter. There are many to choose from; sporting events, art exhibits, concerts, plays and literary happenings. But the ones that really mark the thaw of the city from Winter’s grip…

OSTERIA LA MARIUTA

The only reason I have ever traveled to the town of Ronchi dei Legionari is to get to Trieste’s airport. “Ronchi” means cultivated lands and the town was originally called Ronchi di Monfalcone. The name changed came after Gabriele D’Annunzio (famed Italian military man, poet, playwright, journalist, patriot) led 2,000 locals — not part of…