Many people don’t realize how sprawling Trieste is. It’s not just what you see when you are down on the waterfront – Trieste is a multicultural and multilingual metropolis and it offers a very diverse landscape – from the popular Rive on the seaside, to tiny towns nestled in the Carso, to the old city,…
Springtime in the region brings with it the bounty of wild herbs and edible plants, among them, the much awaited ”Sclopit” or Silene Vulgaris, a wild green that grows almost everywhere. The name Sclopit is derived from a childhod game when children would pick the flowers and pop them between their palms making a little…
My favorite thing about Easter in Trieste is the delicious Titola. A traditional Easter cake that makes its appearance for a brief time right around the holiday, it is wrapped in cellophane and colorful bows. It is as pretty as it is delicious with its colorful easter eggs nestled in the shiny, moist braided dough.…
I am by no means a wine connoisseur, but I hope to become at least an informed enthusiast while living here in Trieste. My only exposure to wines of this region had been a brief love affair with a wine by Livio Felluga which I only remember by the distinctive label with the map of…
I often take friends just over the border for delicious meals at some of the classic Slovenian Gostilnas, but on a Tuesday nights, many are closed. Luckily my pals on a Triestine cooking page on Facebook suggested I try Trattoria Valeria 1904 in Opicina. A friend of mine who is a “buona forchetta” (a “good…
Carnevale is just around the corner. Store fronts are filled with glittery masks and brightly colored costumes and bakeries are showcasing the typical holiday fried fare consisting of crostoli, bugie ripiene, frittole, castagnole and other goodies! Everywhere you walk, you see the remnants of early celebrations; confetti and streamers scattered and balled up in street…
People often complain that Trieste is so remote — and Triestines joke that they like it that way! But in fact, this famous gateway to “MittleEurope” is undergoing a transformation to make it even more accessible. The biggest news is that starting March 19, 2018, there will be a new train connection between Trieste…
Trieste doesn’t disappoint on New Year’s Eve, (“la vigilia di Capodanno”). Celebrations abound at clubs, restaurants and bars throughout the city and this year, New Year’s eve celebrations also return to the beautiful medieval Castello San Giusto, offering a prime position from which to view the fireworks over the gulf of Trieste. The party in…
I was surprised when Universal Pictures released the horror/comedy film entitled Krampus in 2015. I had just moved to Trieste but until then, I had never heard of the Krampus lore which here coincides with the feast of Saint Nicholas. There are celebrations that last over several days and encompass several mountain villages in the…
“Il Rossetti” is the name of the playhouse in Trieste. Formally known as the Politeama Rossetti or Teatro Stabile del Friuli-Venezia Giulia — it is where one goes to see headliner plays, musicals and concerts. Politeama means multi-purpose; from one man shows featuring local folk hero Simone Cristicchi to plays featuring some of Italy’s most…
The name, Illy is universally associated with high quality coffee. The company logo shares the colors of Trieste, red & white, where the company was born and where its headquarters still reside. I had the opportunity to tour the facility last week, and, I have to say it is a very impressive operation. Founded on…
“The Fava Beans of the Dead” sounds particularly well-suited to this time of year, now that we’re coming up to Halloween and the Giorno dei Morti, or day of the dead. Each year, starting in October, piles of pink, white and brown round treats fill the windows of the local bakeries. These are the the Fave…
The Teatro Giuseppe Verdi of Trieste is a beautiful pink and white confection just next to Piazza Unita’ often referred to as the “Salotto di Trieste”, (The Drawing Room of Trieste). It is home to the Symphony, Ballet and Opera in Trieste. Under the guidance of Stefano Pace, it’s superintendent, the Verdi has just…
When I found out I’d be moving to Trieste – a part of Italy previously unknown to me – I looked at a map and asked my husband, “are you sure we are moving to Italy?” On the map, Trieste is a crescent shape hugging the Adriatic, but to me, it most decidedly looked…
Udine is, as the locals say, “the Milan” of the FVG region, meaning it is industrious, full of hard working people and often finds itself a little out of step with its more leisurely and chill neighbors. Not often considered a tourist destination, it is in fact ideally situated in the Province of Udine which…
