One of the things Italians pride themselves on it’s calculating how to maximize their days off. Thanks to an abundance of religious holidays, the calendar year is peppered with “ponti” or long weekends, strategically mapped out to make the most of days off, even at the expense of tacking on a personal day. The higher…
In Piazza Giotti, just across the street from the Jewish Synagogue is a wonderful little deli or Salumeria run by the Fontanot family. The walls and doors outside are covered with signs describing their inventory. But right away you sense there is something different. Perhaps the meticulous and measured calligraphy evoking some medieval manuscript or…
People often complain that Trieste is so remote — and Triestines joke that they like it that way! But in fact, this famous gateway to “MittleEurope” is undergoing a transformation to make it even more accessible. The biggest news is the new train connection between Trieste and the local international airport Aeroporto Friuli Venezia Giulia (TRS)…
One of the things I love about Italy and the Italian language is that there are so many ways to describe emotions… particularly when you feel out of sorts…stranito to mean “feeling a little off” or “weird” is one of my favorites. Of course, Trieste not only has a word, but a whole character and…
Oftentimes, whilst doing the most ordinary of things here in Trieste, I see something or go somewhere that reminds me of the extraordinary history of this city and the amazing generosity of the great old families of Trieste. Recently I needed to seek out a physical therapist for a problem with my back and I…
Driving along Viale Miramare, one passes a large expanse of seemingly abandoned buildings and warehouses. This is the Porto Vecchio, the Old Port of Trieste. When I first visited here 5 years ago, most of it was closed off to the public. One could gain access only with special permission and armed with a passport…
When you’re in Trieste, it’s hard to miss the strange, quasi-pyramid looking structure overlooking the sea from high above Barcola. Locals refer to it as el formaggin “the little cheese”, as it recalls the triangular shape of the cheese wedges beloved by children (think Laughing Cow), with the tip bitten off. When you learn its real…
Over the past several weeks I have been encountering several “Easter Trees” in Trieste, some in stores or restaurants and many in people’s homes. Coming from the States, I thought this was another tradition that was commercially induced and most likely born of craft store overstock combined with the ingenious skills of an inventive stock…
On my way to the gym, I walk past a very pretty pastry shop. In contrast to the dark, grey buildings that surround it, the CADENARO shop in via Palestrina emits a golden glow. I finally caved and instead of marching ahead with resolute will-power, I allowed myself to be lured inside to look over…
This past Sunday, the Mayor of Trieste handed over the key to the city to the King and Queen of Carnevale 2019 to signify the start of the festivities. Fat Thursday is this week and already, families (with pets in tow) in matching outfits have taken to the streets with their adorable kids to festoon…
As a carnivorous American with a penchant for good, flavorful meat, I had a hard time finding both a good butcher in Trieste and quality meat. In fact, when I first got here, many locals suggested I go to Slovenia to buy meat. There, I was told in a hushed whisper, the meat was better…
Trieste is inherently tied to Vienna. Having been under Austrian rule since as far back as 1382, when the main citizens of Trieste in petitioned Leopold III of Habsburg, Duke of Austria in order to become part of his domains. Subsequently Trieste gained wealth and importance as the port city of the consolidated Austrian Littoral. It became little Vienna on the…
As a gift to all of you, I thought I’d share my tried and true Christmas cookie recipes that I have been making year after year. Now that I have been living in Trieste for almost 3 years, these cookies have become a way for me to cherish my U.S. traditions as well as share…
In Trieste, every season and holiday has its “must-haves” sweets, whether it’s Titola for Easter, Gnocchi di Susine to mark the end of summer or Fave dei Morti in the Fall. Christmastime is no different and holiday tables will be laden with a variety of baked goods. Here are the desserts that you will surely find at a typical Triestine Christmas:…
Le Fave dei Morti (“The Fava Beans of the Dead”) sounds particularly well-suited to this time of year, now that we’re coming up on Halloween and the Giorno dei Morti, or Day of the Dead. Each year, starting in October, piles of pink, white and brown round treats fill the windows of the local bakeries.…
