TASTE OF TRIESTE: Grappa di Erba Luigia

My social circles have shrunk noticeably in the last 9 months. I no longer host dinner parties for 20, or 10 or really anyone anymore. Rarely do I meet friends for dinner or cocktails (maybe 6 times since March) and now with the new restrictions even those options are off the table. Socializing has become…

ROSA DI GORIZIA

Ode to the Rosa di Gorizia courtesy of Rosenbar Restaurant   In the dead of winter, when all else struggles to bloom, the Rosa di Gorizia is the first “flower” to appear in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region.  I’m talking about a local variety of red radicchio (Cichorium intybus) that has been cultivated in and…

SALUMERIA FONTANOT

In Piazza Giotti, just across the street from the Jewish Synagogue is a wonderful little deli or Salumeria run by the Fontanot family. The walls and doors outside are covered with signs describing their inventory. But right away you sense there is something different. Perhaps the meticulous and measured calligraphy evoking some medieval manuscript  or…

PaPi

A new restaurant has recently opened in Trieste’s commercial district on Via Macchiavelli. This area, which until recently had been a little depressed and filled primarily with commercial offices and dollar stores, is seeing a resurgence with a crop of new bars and restaurants to match the increasing  residential renovation projects of the district. PaPi…

PIAZZA UNITA’ D’ITALIA’S DESPA(I)R

Last month, on January 24, amid little fanfare or celebration, the Despar supermarket opened its doors onto Piazza Unita’. Long awaited, much debated and controversial, the arrival of a supermarket on the most iconic piazza in Italy was largely frowned upon by almost everyone in Trieste, concerned that it would “cheapen” the piazza and quickly…