Driving along Viale Miramare, one passes a large expanse of seemingly abandoned buildings and warehouses. This is the Porto Vecchio, the Old Port of Trieste. When I first visited here 5 years ago, most of it was closed off to the public. One could gain access only with special permission and armed with a passport…
When you’re in Trieste, it’s hard to miss the strange, quasi-pyramid looking structure overlooking the sea from high above Barcola. Locals refer to it as el formaggin “the little cheese”, as it recalls the triangular shape of the cheese wedges beloved by children (think Laughing Cow), with the tip bitten off. When you learn its real…
Despite this brief throwback to winter-like weather, Spring in Trieste is definitely on its way! Lots of fun events are gearing up and to be sure you don’t miss out on the fun — here’s a little preview of what you can look forward to in the coming weeks. May 9 – marks the start of…
There is a delightful little street hidden behind Corso Italia called Via Degli Artisti which is home to several cute shops, among them, a little gem called TEA TIME which sells a vast assortment of teas and spices. When you walk in, you realize that this is much more than a tea shop, it is…
My sister who has visited Trieste twice before is visiting for a 3rd time and we are diving a little deeper to see and do things we haven’t already done before. Already this trip has taken us to visit some wineries in Collio, we visited Tomadin in Cormons to stock up on Osvaldo small batch prosciutto…
Over the past several weeks I have been encountering several “Easter Trees” in Trieste, some in stores or restaurants and many in people’s homes. Coming from the States, I thought this was another tradition that was commercially induced and most likely born of craft store overstock combined with the ingenious skills of an inventive stock…
Love fish but hate to cook it? Don’t know how to cook it? Don’t like the smell of fish stinking up your apartment? Oh boy, do I have a great solution for you! AL GAMBERO is the fish market that cooks and delivers to you — or — you can go to either of their…
Recently, I’ve noticed calendar events popping up on Facebook announcing “Unfolding Paper Stories” with the accompanying photos displaying delightful and complex paper creations with the tag line: “not just for kids”! I was intrigued. The organizer is Annalisa Metus, a paper engineer (a title I have never heard of before) so I immediately reached out to her and…
As you may well have noticed, the days are a little longer, the sun a little warmer and the hillsides are now dotted with flowering trees. On the Carst, there are violets, crocuses, buttercups and daisies dotting the fields and roadside. Pretty soon, the first of the lucertole (lizards a.k.a. sun-seekers) will creep over to the…
On my way to the gym, I walk past a very pretty pastry shop. In contrast to the dark, grey buildings that surround it, the CADENARO shop in via Palestrina emits a golden glow. I finally caved and instead of marching ahead with resolute will-power, I allowed myself to be lured inside to look over…
This past Sunday, the Mayor of Trieste handed over the key to the city to the King and Queen of Carnevale 2019 to signify the start of the festivities. Fat Thursday is this week and already, families (with pets in tow) in matching outfits have taken to the streets with their adorable kids to festoon…
At first glance it appears a “new” restaurant has opened on the Rive, just across the street from Eataly — in fact, Joia opened 4 years ago in Via Diaz, but recently relocated to this prime spot on the waterfront. When I first saw it in its original location, I was impressed by the spillover…
Last month, on January 24, amid little fanfare or celebration, the Despar supermarket opened its doors onto Piazza Unita’. Long awaited, much debated and controversial, the arrival of a supermarket on the most iconic piazza in Italy was largely frowned upon by almost everyone in Trieste, concerned that it would “cheapen” the piazza and quickly…
Recognized as one of the forefathers of Italian advertising poster art “Cartonellismo”, Leopoldo Metlicovitz is being commemorated with twin exhibits at the beautiful Carlo Schmidel Museum on the famed Canal Grande and at the sumptuous Museo Revoltella off of the trendy Via Torino. Leopoldo Metlicovitz (1868-1944), a native of Trieste, worked primarily in Milan for…
The Nonino family would be the first to tell you that there is no such thing as magic — only hard work and passion. And, if anything comes close to magic it is their matriarch, Giannola Nonino (nee’ Bulfoni in 1938 in Percoto (UD)) also known as the Queen of Grappa. When I was growing…
