TASTE OF TRIESTE: TARTARA DI BOVINO

Walking around Trieste, you will notice that many butcher shops have signs advertising the availability of steak tartare on Fridays and Saturdays. This struck me as unusual in more ways than one; having grown up in an Italian-American family, Fridays was rigorously a “no meat” day in the Catholic practice of self-discipline and penance. And…

SALUMERIA FONTANOT

In Piazza Giotti, just across the street from the Jewish Synagogue is a wonderful little deli or Salumeria run by the Fontanot family. The walls and doors outside are covered with signs describing their inventory. But right away you sense there is something different. Perhaps the meticulous and measured calligraphy evoking some medieval manuscript  or…

MARIABOLOGNA: LIKE HOMEMADE

Where do Triestines go when they are looking for authentic home-cooked meals? Look no further than Mariabologna. I have often passed by this shop in Via Cesare Battisti and and immediately sensed that there was something special about this shop…that somehow time had stood still here, preserving all that was good. From the vintage whimsical…

TRATTORIA NERODISEPPIA

At Trattoria NerodiSeppia it is often hard to snag a reservation if you don’t plan ahead. Not only is seating extremely limited but it is extraordinarily popular with locals and tourists alike, even if it is a little out of the hustle and bustle of the city center. The restaurant is cute, cozy and unpretentious.…