SURVIVAL GUIDE: TRIESTE CITY OF KNOWLEDGE

Before moving to Trieste, I did a little research and discovered, to my joy, that it is known for great Prosecco and local wines, it’s proximity to prosciutto heaven, San Daniele, Illy Coffee, the Bora wind and the Barcolana Regata. What I discovered when I arrived is that Trieste’s possibly greatest asset is, in fact, its scientific community.…

ANTICO CAFFE’ SAN MARCO

Antico Caffe’ San Marco is one of the most iconic historic cafes in the heart of Trieste and must not be missed.  Established in 1914, it soon became the intellectual hub of the city. Writers, artists, musicians, students and activists  (the “Irredentisti”) all met here to read the daily paper, study, write, discuss and debate the…

MASE’: TRIESTE’S DELI

Mase’ is the ubiquitous deli or “salumeria” of Trieste, specializing in Triestine delicacies. The stores are stocked with a variety of products from; dry goods like pasta and grains to wines and sausages, cheeses and precooked dishes and, of course, the assortment of “salumi” featuring the “Cotto Triestino”. Mase’ was created by two brothers who moved to…

SURVIVAL GUIDE: EASTER BREADS & TITOLA

Easter in Trieste is beautiful, the fruit trees are ending their bloom and spreading their last blossoms, like confetti, on the passersby. Cascades of wisteria pour over terrace railings, pergolas and retaining walls of villas perched on Via Commerciale. And everywhere the scent of jasmine and blossoming laurel grows more intoxicating as the sun gets warmer.…

TRATTORIA NERODISEPPIA

At Trattoria NerodiSeppia it is often hard to snag a reservation if you don’t plan ahead. Not only is seating extremely limited but it is extraordinarily popular with locals and tourists alike, even if it is a little out of the hustle and bustle of the city center. The restaurant is cute, cozy and unpretentious.…

PROFUMERIA PORTICI

Trieste has a perfume shop nearly on every corner, but if you are looking for a very particular product, chances are, they themselves will direct you to Profumeria Portici. It is a small shop under the Portici di Chiozza just at the intersection of Via Cesare Battisti and Via Carducci before Largo Bonifacio. Portici is the…

TRIESTE-OPICINA CAR RACE

  The Trieste-Opicina car race debuted in the summer of 1911 with a purse of 10,000 crowns put forth by Prince Erich von Thurn und Taxis. At that time, Trieste was still part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the cars participating represented some of the most famous names from the realms of aristocracy and industry of both Austria and Trieste.  Unfortunately,…

SPRINGTIME IN TRIESTE

Trieste welcomes Spring with many outdoor events. There are many to choose from covering everything from sports to literary events. But the ones that really mark the thaw of the city from Winter’s grip are among my favorites : Trieste in Fiore, Castelli Aperti and Horti Tergestini. Trieste in Fiore is the annual garden and flower…

FOLKLORE: LA DAMA BIANCA

  The legend of the “Lady in White” is a common one around the world. Often, it refers to the ghost of a woman who, in life,  has suffered abuse or unbearable tragedy so as to deprive her of peace in the afterlife. Even Trieste has its “lady in white” — in fact — there are  even a…