DAY-TRIPS: UDINE

Udine is, as the locals say, “the Milan” of the FVG region, meaning it is industrious, full of hard working people and often finds itself a little out of step with its more leisurely and chill neighbors. Not often considered a tourist destination, it is in fact ideally situated in the Province of Udine which…

MARIABOLOGNA: LIKE HOMEMADE

Where do Triestines go when they are looking for authentic home-cooked meals? Look no further than Mariabologna. I have often passed by this shop in Via Cesare Battisti and and immediately sensed that there was something special about this shop…that somehow time had stood still here, preserving all that was good. From the vintage whimsical…

SURVIVAL GUIDE: TRIESTE CITY OF KNOWLEDGE

Before moving to Trieste, I did a little research and discovered, to my joy, that it is known for great Prosecco and local wines, it’s proximity to prosciutto heaven, San Daniele, Illy Coffee, the Bora wind and the Barcolana Regata. What I discovered when I arrived is that Trieste’s possibly greatest asset is, in fact, its scientific community.…

ANTICO CAFFE’ SAN MARCO

Antico Caffe’ San Marco is one of the most iconic historic cafes in the heart of Trieste and must not be missed.  Established in 1914, it soon became the intellectual hub of the city. Writers, artists, musicians, students and activists  (the “Irredentisti”) all met here to read the daily paper, study, write, discuss and debate the…

MASE’: TRIESTE’S DELI

Mase’ is the ubiquitous deli or “salumeria” of Trieste, specializing in Triestine delicacies. The stores are stocked with a variety of products from; dry goods like pasta and grains to wines and sausages, cheeses and precooked dishes and, of course, the assortment of “salumi” featuring the “Cotto Triestino”. Mase’ was created by two brothers who moved to…

SURVIVAL GUIDE: EASTER BREADS & TITOLA

Easter in Trieste is beautiful, the fruit trees are ending their bloom and spreading their last blossoms, like confetti, on the passersby. Cascades of wisteria pour over terrace railings, pergolas and retaining walls of villas perched on Via Commerciale. And everywhere the scent of jasmine and blossoming laurel grows more intoxicating as the sun gets warmer.…

TRATTORIA NERODISEPPIA

At Trattoria NerodiSeppia it is often hard to snag a reservation if you don’t plan ahead. Not only is seating extremely limited but it is extraordinarily popular with locals and tourists alike, even if it is a little out of the hustle and bustle of the city center. The restaurant is cute, cozy and unpretentious.…