TASTE OF TRIESTE: Grappa di Erba Luigia

My social circles have shrunk noticeably in the last 9 months. I no longer host dinner parties for 20, or 10 or really anyone anymore. Rarely do I meet friends for dinner or cocktails (maybe 6 times since March) and now with the new restrictions even those options are off the table. Socializing has become…

SALUMERIA FONTANOT

In Piazza Giotti, just across the street from the Jewish Synagogue is a wonderful little deli or Salumeria run by the Fontanot family. The walls and doors outside are covered with signs describing their inventory. But right away you sense there is something different. Perhaps the meticulous and measured calligraphy evoking some medieval manuscript  or…

PIAZZA UNITA’ D’ITALIA’S DESPA(I)R

Last month, on January 24, amid little fanfare or celebration, the Despar supermarket opened its doors onto Piazza Unita’. Long awaited, much debated and controversial, the arrival of a supermarket on the most iconic piazza in Italy was largely frowned upon by almost everyone in Trieste, concerned that it would “cheapen” the piazza and quickly…

SALUS POINT

My awareness of the increasingly widespread problem of gluten intolerance has grown enormously since I moved to Italy.  It seems ironic that a country that is synonymous with pasta and some of the most amazing bread in the world should have such a high incidence of sufferers. According to the Italian Health Commission on Celiac…

MARIABOLOGNA: LIKE HOMEMADE

Where do Triestines go when they are looking for authentic home-cooked meals? Look no further than Mariabologna. I have often passed by this shop in Via Cesare Battisti and and immediately sensed that there was something special about this shop…that somehow time had stood still here, preserving all that was good. From the vintage whimsical…

MASE’: TRIESTE’S DELI

Mase’ is the ubiquitous deli or “salumeria” of Trieste, specializing in Triestine delicacies. The stores are stocked with a variety of products from; dry goods like pasta and grains to wines and sausages, cheeses and precooked dishes and, of course, the assortment of “salumi” featuring the “Cotto Triestino”. Mase’ was created by two brothers who moved to…

GELATERIA ARNOLDO O.

Gelateria  Arnoldo O. on Viale Miramare, continues to satisfy triestines’ and tourists’ ice-cream cravings alike. The story goes that the Arnoldo brothers, Attilio and Olivio, to escape the misery of life in Val di Zoldo, a small mountain town in the region, headed to Vienna to learn how to make ice-cream. When WW1 erupted they returned to…