I have had some wonderful meals at the Ristorante Al Monastero, a restaurant in Cividale del Friuli that serves traditional friulian cuisine. The old-style building was once a fraternity house of the order of Santa Maria dei Battuti (a secular medieval order sworn to offer aid and assistance in the form of hospice, shelter and…
Trieste is famous for its “buffets”. No, not the American style, all-you-can-eat self service brunchy buffet you’re thinking of…. In Trieste, buffets are an institution, a legacy from the days under the Austro-Hungarian Empire of which the city is still proud. The buffet is a “democratic” eatery equally loved by workers, students, retirees and ladies…
I recently read an article by a fellow American and writer, Noah Charney, who lives in Slovenia, about his Ski and Swim Challenge. Basically, Slovenia, our lovely neighbor to the north and east, boasts “that the country is so compact, with such a diversity of terrain, that you can ski in the morning and swim…
I often take friends just over the border for delicious meals at some of the classic Slovenian Gostilnas, but on a Tuesday nights, many are closed. Luckily my pals on a Triestine cooking page on Facebook suggested I try Trattoria Valeria 1904 in Opicina. A friend of mine who is a “buona forchetta” (a “good…
Centrally located in the heart of the shopping district on via San Niccolo’, Zushi is the “go-to” sushi restaurant in Trieste. Clean, modern, light and fresh, Zushi is very inviting. Attentive staff, excellent quality products and well-maintained premises make coming here a no-brainer. The only drawback for me is their tendency to incorporate cream cheese…
For a city on the sea, Trieste surprisingly has very few places in town where to eat on the waterfront. City planners promise there will be more to come, but in the meantime, these are the ones I would recommend for enjoying the view, the food and sometimes both. Some are better than others but…
There is a sense of renewal in Trieste. New stores and restaurants are popping up and although it is a small city, it is always bustling with activities and events. Bars and restaurants are well attended as the Triestines love meeting friends for aperitivi or going out for dinner. The “Sacchetta” neighborhood (near the Port…
Antico Caffe’ San Marco is one of the most iconic historic cafes in the heart of Trieste and must not be missed. Established in 1914, it soon became the intellectual hub of the city. Writers, artists, musicians, students and activists (the “Irredentisti”) all met here to read the daily paper, study, write, discuss and debate the…
At Trattoria NerodiSeppia it is often hard to snag a reservation if you don’t plan ahead. Not only is seating extremely limited but it is extraordinarily popular with locals and tourists alike, even if it is a little out of the hustle and bustle of the city center. The restaurant is cute, cozy and unpretentious.…
One night at a party, a friend of mine mentioned that he knew of a restaurant in Trieste that made the best spaghetti with sea urchin. I stored that little nugget of info away and when the first opportunity arose to choose where to go for a seafood dinner with friends, I threw out the…
One of the two highly rated-seafood restaurants on the tiny port of Duino, what Al Cavalluccio lacks in “glam”, it more than makes up for it in delicious food, abundant portions, and excellent service. To be fair, it may not look as fancy as its neighbor, LA DAMA BIANCA, but inside it is cozy and…
One would never guess that the modest little country home off the winding road just across the border from Italy near Opicina, is seat to one of Slovenia’s most prized chefs. Peter Patajac, winner of many International culinary awards, runs Ruj in Sezana, Slovenia — a mere 15 minutes from downtown Trieste. In the heart of…
Azienda Agricola Zobec launched its aquafarming business in 1984 in the outskirts of Trieste, near the natural springs of Bagnoli di Rosandra. At first they raised trout and char, today their focus is salmon. In 2005 they opened their restaurant specializing in craft beer and salmon or “Salmone e Birra” as they call it. They offer a…
Don’t let the cute name fool you! Mimì e Cocotte is the brainchild of Giovanna Abbondanza, dynamic restauranteur from Bologna who came to Trieste to hear Pearl Jam in concert and never left. She has brought new ideas to the Trieste scene, her restaurant hosts a mobile library, has a loyalty program, works with sustatainable products and…
Fairly new to the neighborhood, DRAW is the most recent venture from local restauranteur Walter Gustin, owner of 040 Social Food, Antico Panada, Di Fronte Al Verdi and Giardino Tergesteo. The menu consists of entirely raw offerings; from salads, tartars, crudi, and even “pasta” made with zucchini noodles. It is light, fresh and tasty and the restaurant…
