Driving along Viale Miramare, one passes a large expanse of seemingly abandoned buildings and warehouses. This is the Porto Vecchio, the Old Port of Trieste. When I first visited here 5 years ago, most of it was closed off to the public. One could gain access only with special permission and armed with a passport…
Despite this brief throwback to winter-like weather, Spring in Trieste is definitely on its way! Lots of fun events are gearing up and to be sure you don’t miss out on the fun — here’s a little preview of what you can look forward to in the coming weeks. May 9 – marks the start of…
My sister who has visited Trieste twice before is visiting for a 3rd time and we are diving a little deeper to see and do things we haven’t already done before. Already this trip has taken us to visit some wineries in Collio, we visited Tomadin in Cormons to stock up on Osvaldo small batch prosciutto…
Love fish but hate to cook it? Don’t know how to cook it? Don’t like the smell of fish stinking up your apartment? Oh boy, do I have a great solution for you! AL GAMBERO is the fish market that cooks and delivers to you — or — you can go to either of their…
Recently, I’ve noticed calendar events popping up on Facebook announcing “Unfolding Paper Stories” with the accompanying photos displaying delightful and complex paper creations with the tag line: “not just for kids”! I was intrigued. The organizer is Annalisa Metus, a paper engineer (a title I have never heard of before) so I immediately reached out to her and…
This past Sunday, the Mayor of Trieste handed over the key to the city to the King and Queen of Carnevale 2019 to signify the start of the festivities. Fat Thursday is this week and already, families (with pets in tow) in matching outfits have taken to the streets with their adorable kids to festoon…
The Nonino family would be the first to tell you that there is no such thing as magic — only hard work and passion. And, if anything comes close to magic it is their matriarch, Giannola Nonino (nee’ Bulfoni in 1938 in Percoto (UD)) also known as the Queen of Grappa. When I was growing…
As a carnivorous American with a penchant for good, flavorful meat, I had a hard time finding both a good butcher in Trieste and quality meat. In fact, when I first got here, many locals suggested I go to Slovenia to buy meat. There, I was told in a hushed whisper, the meat was better…
Trieste is inherently tied to Vienna. Having been under Austrian rule since as far back as 1382, when the main citizens of Trieste in petitioned Leopold III of Habsburg, Duke of Austria in order to become part of his domains. Subsequently Trieste gained wealth and importance as the port city of the consolidated Austrian Littoral. It became little Vienna on the…
Le Fave dei Morti (“The Fava Beans of the Dead”) sounds particularly well-suited to this time of year, now that we’re coming up on Halloween and the Giorno dei Morti, or Day of the Dead. Each year, starting in October, piles of pink, white and brown round treats fill the windows of the local bakeries.…
This year, Trieste celebrates 50 years of the Barcolana Autumn Cup Regatta (La Barcolana), organized by the Società Velica di Barcola e Grignano. This is one of Trieste’s premiere events for locals and visitors alike. Organizers hope to beat last year’s record of 2101 boats! See footage of the start of last year’s race here.…
When I was looking for cooking classes for friends coming in from out of town, I asked my local Facebook peeps for recommendations; the resounding reply from the majority was “contact Federica!“. Federica Caccamo is a former chemist turned pastry chef (as many know, pastry like chemistry, requires precision and careful management of many different…
Just north of Trieste, next door to Opicina, lies the town of Monrupino (Repentabor in Slovenian *). It is marked by the Sanctuary of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin which can be seen perched atop the hill overlooking the Karst. This is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike as, from here, you…
I have had some wonderful meals at the Ristorante Al Monastero, a restaurant in Cividale del Friuli that serves traditional friulian cuisine. The old-style building was once a fraternity house of the order of Santa Maria dei Battuti (a secular medieval order sworn to offer aid and assistance in the form of hospice, shelter and…
Just a little over an hour’s drive from Trieste, tucked away in the Julian Alps is the town of Tarvisio. This is a destination year-round for many locals looking to enjoy downhill and cross country skiing in the winter and hiking and biking through the natural beauty of mountains in the summer. Tarvisio offers you…
