Trieste is famous for its “buffets”. No, not the American style, all-you-can-eat self service brunchy buffet you’re thinking of…. In Trieste, buffets are an institution, a legacy from the days under the Austro-Hungarian Empire of which the city is still proud. The buffet is a “democratic” eatery equally loved by workers, students, retirees and ladies…
For a city on the sea, Trieste surprisingly has very few places in town where to eat on the waterfront. City planners promise there will be more to come, but in the meantime, these are the ones I would recommend for enjoying the view, the food and sometimes both. Some are better than others but…
Where do Triestines go when they are looking for authentic home-cooked meals? Look no further than Mariabologna. I have often passed by this shop in Via Cesare Battisti and and immediately sensed that there was something special about this shop…that somehow time had stood still here, preserving all that was good. From the vintage whimsical…
Antico Caffe’ San Marco is one of the most iconic historic cafes in the heart of Trieste and must not be missed. Established in 1914, it soon became the intellectual hub of the city. Writers, artists, musicians, students and activists (the “Irredentisti”) all met here to read the daily paper, study, write, discuss and debate the…
One night at a party, a friend of mine mentioned that he knew of a restaurant in Trieste that made the best spaghetti with sea urchin. I stored that little nugget of info away and when the first opportunity arose to choose where to go for a seafood dinner with friends, I threw out the…
Nestled in the lush woods of the Collio region, just a ways out of the village of Cormons, is one of the best restaurants in the region. The Trattoria Il Cacciatore is the gem of the Subida realm carved out by the Sirk family. Having earned a Michelin star for its fusion of Friulian and…
Part of the network of “House Museums” across Italy, this home was built in 1875 by Giovanni and Ruggero Berlam of Trieste for the prominent Jewish family, Morpurgo de Nilma of Trieste. The 1st and second floors belonged to the Morpurgo brothers Carlo Marco and Giacomo respectively, who married a pair of sisters Emma and Fanny Mandolfo. The…
La Champagneria is a local favorite; it’s name promises something frilly and cute, but, in reality it is a cozy local winebar that happens to have an amazingly robust selection of “taglieri” wooden boards laden with either fresh seafood or charcuterie and wines, champagnes and prosecchi. It is ideal for aperitivo, where you can enjoy a…
Established in 1865, this iconic Triestine restaurant has been passed down through 4 generations and is the embodiment of the culture and traditions of this city and its diverse population. Located in the same spot in San Giovanni, where it was originally founded, it became a destination restaurant for those seeking a good meal and…
As the epicenter of “Mittle-Europe” Trieste has a bit of a “split personality” when it comes to its cuisine. It is a city that offers some of the finest seafood, fished from the Adriatic — from the most refined crudi to heavenly fish stews to the everyday and much loved anchovy dishes (both versions…
“Osem” means eight in Slovenian and it’s the root of the word “Osmiza”. Eight is the number of days, as decreed by Joseph II of Hapsburg in the late 1700s, in which farmers were allowed to sell their wares directly to the public. The tradition was born as a way for farmers to get rid of…
Walking in the heart of Trieste’s Cavana district, you will find SaluMare, a small fish restaurant and wine bar that excels in small plates. Dominated by a large outdoor communal table, at night SaluMare gets jam-packed with the customers who gather there to catch up at the end of a busy day and drink prosecco from small squat glasses and…
Located just off “the Viale” (Viale XX Settembre – the tree-lined and bar lined promenade in Trieste), Menarosti is a quality traditional Triestine seafood restaurant. The must order dishes are the risotto di mare (seafood risotto), the fritto misto (a mix of fried anchovies, calamari, shrimp and fish) and the crab served in its…
A permanent fixture in Trieste, Osteria Salvagente has been given a second life by its new owners, Marco & Valentina, who continue to serve traditional Triestine dishes at very reasonable prices. With a 20 year track record as restauranteurs in Venice, they’ve infused new life into the old place by bumping up the quality with the freshest of…
