Last month, on January 24, amid little fanfare or celebration, the Despar supermarket opened its doors onto Piazza Unita’. Long awaited, much debated and controversial, the arrival of a supermarket on the most iconic piazza in Italy was largely frowned upon by almost everyone in Trieste, concerned that it would “cheapen” the piazza and quickly…
As a carnivorous American with a penchant for good, flavorful meat, I had a hard time finding both a good butcher in Trieste and quality meat. In fact, when I first got here, many locals suggested I go to Slovenia to buy meat. There, I was told in a hushed whisper, the meat was better…
Silvia Rossi is a wisp of a woman whose creativity bubbles, breaking the surface and it is barely contained by the walls of her tiny atelier at the foot of Castello San Giusto in Trieste. I first met her on a freezing cold winter day at a market organized by Barbacan Produce (a group of…
On a little winding side street, in the old neighborhood of Cavana one finds TERRA MATER, a little gourmet shop specialized in bringing to market small producer delicacies native to the Friuli, Venezia Giulia Region. The shop opened a little less than a year ago under the guidance of Ervin Rama, and with the help…
Trieste fashion is very understated. Of course, there are the “suits” (mostly employees of the two large insurance firms in town, Generali and Allianz) and then the old guard, a squadron of elderly ladies who are meticulously attired with matching handbags and shoes in toney shades of browns, blues and greys. But mostly, people are…
My awareness of the increasingly widespread problem of gluten intolerance has grown enormously since I moved to Italy. It seems ironic that a country that is synonymous with pasta and some of the most amazing bread in the world should have such a high incidence of sufferers. According to the Italian Health Commission on Celiac…
Walking down the Via Valdirivo, under the greyness of the winter day, I was greeted by an explosion of color and light. A storefront window festooned with fabric flag banners in joyous wild patterns drew me in. I had stumbled upon the brick and mortar incarnation of Patchworkvictim.it, an eshop that sells “American” fabrics for…
Diffusione Tessile is among one of the first outlets and stock houses (known also as “spaccio aziendale”) that appeared in the Italian landscape in the 1990s. Over the years, there has been a steady growth of both the number of outlets and the quality and quantity of apparel items available at bargain prices (check out…
Where do Triestines go when they are looking for authentic home-cooked meals? Look no further than Mariabologna. I have often passed by this shop in Via Cesare Battisti and and immediately sensed that there was something special about this shop…that somehow time had stood still here, preserving all that was good. From the vintage whimsical…
A mere 20 minutes from downtown Trieste is the Slovenian port-city of Koper or Capodistria. It has many attractions; good restaurants, a gracious historic downtown lined with lovely shops, nice shopping malls and even a very well-regarded university. But the real reason we enjoy going is the foreign language movie policy. In Slovenia, most films are…
Just up the hill near the Tram stop in Opicina, there is a remarkable shop specialized in frozen foods. When I say frozen goods I mean — EVERY KIND OF FROZEN FOOD IMAGINABLE — It’s basically the Disneyland of frozen food. Even if you never buy frozen, it is a SIGHT TO SEE! You can find…
A favorite fish market in the San Vito neighborhood is the Bottega del Mare, otherwise known as the Pescheria di Via Combi. Always freshly stocked and with a vast selection, this is a go to for both whole fish or prepared fish dishes favored by local moms. Here you can find fish burgers, fish meatballs…
Hidden away in the dead end of Riva Grumula, is the motherlode of health food stores — BIOLife Supermarket. Not the most beautiful location, but inside is an oasis of freshness and overwhelming options. You can find every kind of health food to address any dietary need or limitation. They also carry lots of organic frozen, fresh…
At the very end of the “Rive” just a little inwards off the main road, is a fish store that carries fresh locally caught fish as well as farmed fish from Italy and Croatia. Priced reasonably and always well-stocked. They don’t charge extra for cleaning and, with 24 hour notice, the will provide sashimi…
Delikatessen is a delightful little store chock-a-block full of vintage items from all over the world. Just walking in you will be transported back in time, to a happier place full of joy and wonder. You can find school supplies, housewares, lighting, memorabilia from every era. Whether you need to find a small gift, or you’re looking…
