BARCOLANA 2019

This year, Trieste celebrates 51 years of the Barcolana Autumn Cup Regatta (La Barcolana), organized by the Società Velica di Barcola e Grignano. This is one of Trieste’s premiere events for locals and visitors alike and is the world’s largest regatta. For 2019’s race, the organization had to place a cap of 2,700 on the number of entries, as the…

SALUMERIA FONTANOT

In Piazza Giotti, just across the street from the Jewish Synagogue is a wonderful little deli or Salumeria run by the Fontanot family. The walls and doors outside are covered with signs describing their inventory. But right away you sense there is something different. Perhaps the meticulous and measured calligraphy evoking some medieval manuscript  or…

PIAZZA UNITA’ D’ITALIA’S DESPA(I)R

Last month, on January 24, amid little fanfare or celebration, the Despar supermarket opened its doors onto Piazza Unita’. Long awaited, much debated and controversial, the arrival of a supermarket on the most iconic piazza in Italy was largely frowned upon by almost everyone in Trieste, concerned that it would “cheapen” the piazza and quickly…

CORNER

Trieste fashion is very understated. Of course, there are the “suits” (mostly employees of the two large insurance firms in town, Generali and Allianz) and then the old guard, a squadron of elderly ladies who are meticulously attired with matching handbags and shoes in toney shades of browns, blues and greys. But mostly, people are…

SALUS POINT

My awareness of the increasingly widespread problem of gluten intolerance has grown enormously since I moved to Italy.  It seems ironic that a country that is synonymous with pasta and some of the most amazing bread in the world should have such a high incidence of sufferers. According to the Italian Health Commission on Celiac…

PATCHWORKVICTIM

Walking down the Via Valdirivo, under the greyness of the winter day, I was greeted by an explosion of color and light. A storefront window festooned with fabric flag banners in joyous wild patterns drew me in. I had stumbled upon the brick and mortar incarnation of Patchworkvictim.it, an eshop that sells “American” fabrics for…

MARIABOLOGNA: LIKE HOMEMADE

Where do Triestines go when they are looking for authentic home-cooked meals? Look no further than Mariabologna. I have often passed by this shop in Via Cesare Battisti and and immediately sensed that there was something special about this shop…that somehow time had stood still here, preserving all that was good. From the vintage whimsical…