Ode to the Rosa di Gorizia courtesy of Rosenbar Restaurant In the dead of winter, when all else struggles to bloom, the Rosa di Gorizia is the first “flower” to appear in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region. I’m talking about a local variety of red radicchio (Cichorium intybus) that has been cultivated in and…
Trieste is inherently tied to Vienna. Having been under Austrian rule since as far back as 1382, when the main citizens of Trieste in petitioned Leopold III of Habsburg, Duke of Austria in order to become part of his domains. Subsequently Trieste gained wealth and importance as the port city of the consolidated Austrian Littoral. It became little Vienna on the…
The Greek community has had a healthy presence in Trieste since Charles VI declared Trieste a free port in 1719, opening the city up to trade and the establishment of many different ethnic communities within the city. Still today there are many families of Greek heritage in Trieste and they continue to play an important…
Trieste is famous for its “buffets”. No, not the American style, all-you-can-eat self service brunchy buffet you’re thinking of…. In Trieste, buffets are an institution, a legacy from the days under the Austro-Hungarian Empire of which the city is still proud. The buffet is a “democratic” eatery equally loved by workers, students, retirees and ladies…
I recently read an article by a fellow American and writer, Noah Charney, who lives in Slovenia, about his Ski and Swim Challenge. Basically, Slovenia, our lovely neighbor to the north and east, boasts “that the country is so compact, with such a diversity of terrain, that you can ski in the morning and swim…
Centrally located in the heart of the shopping district on via San Niccolo’, Zushi is the “go-to” sushi restaurant in Trieste. Clean, modern, light and fresh, Zushi is very inviting. Attentive staff, excellent quality products and well-maintained premises make coming here a no-brainer. The only drawback for me is their tendency to incorporate cream cheese…
For a city on the sea, Trieste surprisingly has very few places in town where to eat on the waterfront. City planners promise there will be more to come, but in the meantime, these are the ones I would recommend for enjoying the view, the food and sometimes both. Some are better than others but…
There is a sense of renewal in Trieste. New stores and restaurants are popping up and although it is a small city, it is always bustling with activities and events. Bars and restaurants are well attended as the Triestines love meeting friends for aperitivi or going out for dinner. The “Sacchetta” neighborhood (near the Port…
Udine is, as the locals say, “the Milan” of the FVG region, meaning it is industrious, full of hard working people and often finds itself a little out of step with its more leisurely and chill neighbors. Not often considered a tourist destination, it is in fact ideally situated in the Province of Udine which…
Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2011 (recognized as the capitol of the Lombard Duchy and first stop in the “The Lombards in Italy, the places of power (568-774 A.D.)” UNESCO Itinerary), Cividale del Friuli is an intriguing town. Situated high above the Natisone River which, like the Isonzo river, is an amazing shade of emerald green…
Antico Caffe’ San Marco is one of the most iconic historic cafes in the heart of Trieste and must not be missed. Established in 1914, it soon became the intellectual hub of the city. Writers, artists, musicians, students and activists (the “Irredentisti”) all met here to read the daily paper, study, write, discuss and debate the…
At Trattoria NerodiSeppia it is often hard to snag a reservation if you don’t plan ahead. Not only is seating extremely limited but it is extraordinarily popular with locals and tourists alike, even if it is a little out of the hustle and bustle of the city center. The restaurant is cute, cozy and unpretentious.…
One night at a party, a friend of mine mentioned that he knew of a restaurant in Trieste that made the best spaghetti with sea urchin. I stored that little nugget of info away and when the first opportunity arose to choose where to go for a seafood dinner with friends, I threw out the…
The Castle of Duino is one of the most beautiful places to visit in the Trieste area. It is a little more rustic than Miramare but much more soulful and romantic. It maybe because of its location on the windswept cliffs of Duino overlooking the sea and the ancient ruins of the castle of the Patriarch…
Nestled in the lush woods of the Collio region, just a ways out of the village of Cormons, is one of the best restaurants in the region. The Trattoria Il Cacciatore is the gem of the Subida realm carved out by the Sirk family. Having earned a Michelin star for its fusion of Friulian and…
